Dab tsi yog qhov txawv ntawm qhov pheej yig thiab kim silk?
Puas yog koj tsis meej pem los ntawm tus nqi loj rau cov khoom lag luam? Phau ntawv qhia no yuav qhia koj paub yuav ua li cas pom cov ntaub zoo nkauj, yog li koj tuaj yeem ntseeg siab rau koj qhov kev yuav khoom tom ntej.Cov ntaub qhwv zoo[^1] yog txhais los ntawm nws txoj kev xav, luster, thiab qhov hnyav. Cov khaub ncaws kim heev zoo li muag muag thiab du, muaj lub ntsej muag zoo nkauj zoo nkauj, thiab hnyav dua vim tias siab duaNiam suav[^2]. Cov silks pheej yig dua feem ntau hnov zoo dua, muaj lub ntsej muag zoo li yas, thiab nyias nyias.
Nws yuav zoo li nyuaj, tab sis qhia zoo lo lo ntxhuav los ntawm qhov phem yog ib qho yooj yim thaum koj paub tias yuav nrhiav dab tsi. Raws li ib tug neeg uas tau ua hauj lwm nrog cov lo lo ntxhuav rau ze li ntawm 20 xyoo, kuv tuaj yeem qhia koj cov lus qhia yooj yim rau kev yuav khoom ntse. Cia peb rhuav tshem cov ntsiab lus tseem ceeb kom koj tuaj yeem yuav nrog kev ntseeg siab thiab tau txais cov khoom zoo nkauj uas koj tsim nyog.
Koj tuaj yeem qhia tau li cas yog tias txhob lo lo ntxhuav zoo?
Koj sawv hauv lub khw lossis xauj hauv online, tab sis tag nrho cov txhob lo lo ntxhuav zoo tib yam. Koj qhia qhov zoo ntawm qhov phem li cas? Koj xav tau kev sim yooj yim los xyuas qhov zoo.Koj tuaj yeem pom cov ntaub ntawv zoo los ntawm peb yam tseem ceeb: nws kov, nws ci, thiab nws qhov hnyav (Momme). Cov ntaub ntawv zoo tiag tiag zoo li mos thiab txias, muaj lub ntsej muag zoo li lub ntsej muag uas hloov pauv hauv lub teeb, thiab hnov zoo heev, tsis flimsy. Nws kuj tiv taus wrinkling thaum koj pawg nws.Thoob plaws hauv kuv txoj haujlwm ntawm Wonderful Silk, Kuv tau pab suav tsis txheeb cov neeg siv nkag siab txog qhov sib txawv no. Ntau tus xav tsis thoob thaum lawv thawj zaug hnov peb 22 Momme txhob lo lo ntxhuav tom qab siv rau kev xaiv pheej yig dua. Qhov txawv tsis yog pom xwb; nws yog ib yam uas koj xav tau tiag tiag. Txhawm rau pab koj dhau los ua tus kws tshaj lij, cia peb saib cov kev sim no kom ze dua.
CovKov Test[^3]
Qhov no yog txoj kev yooj yim tshaj plaws los txiav txim siab lo lo ntxhuav.Cov ntaub qhwv zoo[^1] muaj kev xav tshwj xeeb. Nws yuav tsum yog incredibly mos thiab du, nrog ib tug txias kov rau koj cov tawv nqaij. Thaum koj khiav nws ntawm koj txhais tes, nws ntws zoo li kua. Nws kuj muaj me ntsis elasticity; yog tias koj maj mam rub nws, nws yuav tsum muaj me ntsis muab thiab rov qab mus rau nws cov duab. Tsis zoo nkauj los yog polyester satin, ntawm qhov tod tes, tuaj yeem hnov nkig, waxy, lossis nplua dhau ntawm txoj kev hluavtaws. Ib qho kev sim zoo tom tsev yog qhov kev sim wrinkle. Muab ib lub ces kaum ntawm cov lo lo ntxhuav thiab scrunch nws ntawm koj txhais tes rau ob peb feeb.Cov ntaub qhwv zoo[^1] yuav muaj tsawg wrinkling, thaum pheej yig dua txhob lo lo ntxhuav yuav tuav lub creases yooj yim dua.
CovLuster thiab Weave Test[^4]
Tom ntej no, saib seb cov txhob lo lo ntxhuav reflects lub teeb.Cov ntaub qhwv zoo[^1], tshwj xeeb tshaj yogMulberry silk[^5], muaj ib tug zoo nkauj, complex luster, tsis yooj yim ci. Nws yuav tsum zoo li hlaws, nrog lub ntsej muag maj mam zoo li los ntawm hauv cov ntaub. Thaum koj txav cov ntaub, lub teeb yuav tsum ua si thoob plaws saum npoo, tsim thaj chaw ntawm lub teeb thiab duab ntxoov ntxoo. Qhov no yog vim hais tias daim duab peb sab qauv ntawm txhob lo lo ntxhuav fibers refracts lub teeb nyob rau hauv txawv lub kaum sab xis. Synthetic satin, nyob rau hauv sib piv, muaj lub tiaj tus, dawb, thiab ci ntsa iab heev uas zoo nkaus li zoo ib yam ntawm txhua lub kaum ntse ntse. Tsis tas li ntawd, tshuaj xyuas lub weave. Ib tug zoo txhob lo lo ntxhuav ntaub yuav muaj ib tug nruj, zoo ib yam weave uas tsis pom flaws los yog snags.
| Feature | High-Quality Silk | Low-Quality or Fake Silk |
|---|---|---|
| Kov | Mos, du, txias, thiab me ntsis elastic. | Nyuaj, waxy, los yog nplua heev. |
| Luster | Multi-toned, pearly glow uas shimmers. | Pav ca, dawb, ib-dimensional ci. |
| Wrinkles | Resistant wrinkling thiab smoothes tawm yooj yim. | Wrinkles yooj yim thiab tuav creases. |
Dab tsi yog qhov zoo tshaj plaws ntawm cov ntaub lo lo ntxhuav?
Koj tau hnov cov lus zoo li Mulberry, Charmeuse, thiab Momme, tab sis lawv txhais li cas? Nws tsis meej pem. Koj tsuas yog xav yuav cov lo lo ntxhuav zoo tshaj plaws, tab sis cov jargon ua rau nws nyuaj rau kev sib piv.Qhov zoo tshaj plaws thiab zoo tshaj plaws silk nyob rau hauv lub ntiaj teb no yog 100%Mulberry silk[^5] nrog siabNiam suav[^2]. Nce nyob rau hauv captivity ntawm ib tug nruj kev noj haus ntawm mulberry nplooj, lubBombyx mas[^6]silkworm tsim qhov ntev tshaj plaws, muaj zog tshaj plaws, thiab feem ntau cov ntaub lo lo ntxhuav, tsim cov ntaub tsis sib xws, luxurious.
Kuv ib txwm qhia kuv cov neeg siv khoom tias yog lawv tab tom nrhiav qhov zoo tshaj plaws, cov lus teb yog ib txwmMulberry silk[^5]. Kev saib xyuas thiab kev tswj hwm uas nkag mus rau hauv nws cov khoom ua rau muaj qib zoo uas lwm cov silks tsis tuaj yeem sib phim. Tab sis kom nkag siab tias vim li cas nws yog qhov zoo tshaj plaws, koj kuj yuav tsum to taub nws qhov hnyav, uas peb ntsuas hauv Momme.
Vim li cas Mulberry Silk Reigns Supreme
Qhov zais cia rauMulberry silk[^5] qhov superiority yog nyob rau hauv nws ntau lawm. Silkworms, scientifically hu uaBombyx mas[^6], raug tsa nyob rau hauv ib puag ncig tswj. Lawv tau noj cov zaub mov tshwj xeeb ntawm nplooj los ntawm tsob ntoo mulberry. Cov txheej txheem ceev faj no ua kom ntseeg tau tias cov kab fibers uas lawv tig rau lawv cov cocoons yog qhov ntev, dawb huv, thiab cov tuab tuab. Thaum cov fibers ntev yog woven rau hauv ntaub, lawv tsim ib cov khoom uas zoo kawg nkaus du, muaj zog, thiab ruaj. Piv txwv li, "tsiaj qus silks" los ntawm cov cab uas noj ntau nplooj, ua rau luv luv, tsis tshua muaj fibers uas tsis zoo li mos los yog ruaj. Qhov no yog vim li cas thaum koj nqis peev hauv 100%Mulberry silk[^5], koj tab tom nqis peev nyob rau hauv qhov kawg pinnacle ntawm txhob lo lo ntxhuav zoo.
Lub luag haujlwm ntawm Momme hauv Kev Zoo
Momme (mm) yog Japanese chav ntsuas qhov hnyav uas tam sim no yog tus qauv ntsuas qhov ntom ntom. Xav txog nws zoo li xov suav rau paj rwb. Tus lej Momme ntau dua txhais tau hais tias cov ntaub siv ntau lo lo ntxhuav ib square meter, ua rau nws hnyav dua, denser, thiab ruaj khov dua. Thaum lub teeb Momme txhob lo lo ntxhuav zoo rau cov phuam qhwv caj dab, siab duaNiam suav[^2] yog qhov tseem ceeb rau cov khoom uas pom kev siv ntau dua, xws li hauv ncoo thiab lub kaus mom. Rau cov khoom no, feem ntau kuv xav kom pib nrog 19 Momme, tab sis 22 lossis 25 Momme muab kev paub zoo tshaj plaws thiab yuav kav ntev dua nrog kev saib xyuas kom raug.
| Qhov siab (mm) | Yam ntxwv | Siv dav |
|---|---|---|
| 8–16 | Lub teeb, airy, feem ntau sheer. | Scarves, linings, muag heev blouses. |
| 17-21 | Tus txheej txheem rau cov khaub ncaws zoo thiab txaj. | Pillowcases, pajamas, dresses. |
| 22-30 : kuv | Qhov khoom kim tshaj plaws; hnyav, opaque, thiab ruaj khov heev. | Khoom kim heev txaj[^7], high-end apparel, tsho khuam. |
Plaub hom kab xev yog dab tsi?
Tshaj li Mulberry, koj pom lwm hom zoo li Tussah thiab Eri. Qhov txawv li cas? Qhov no ntxiv lwm txheej tsis meej pem. Koj tsuas yog xav paub seb yuav xaiv dab tsi rau cov khoom lag luam zoo.Txawm hais tias muaj ntau hom kab xev, lawv feem ntau poob mus rau plaub hom: Mulberry, Tussah, Eri, thiab Muga. Mulberry yog qhov zoo tshaj plaws thiab zoo tshaj plaws. Lwm peb lub npe hu ua "kua silks," raws li lawv tau tsim los ntawm silkworms uas tsis tau cog qoob loo.
Tshaj li kuv 20 xyoo hauv kev lag luam silk, kuv tau ua haujlwm nrog ntau cov ntaub, tab sis kuv lub hom phiaj yeej ib txwm muab qhov zoo tshaj plaws rau kuv cov neeg siv khoom. Yog vim li cas ntawm Wonderful Silk, peb yuav luag tsuas sivMulberry silk[^5]. Txawm hais tias cov silks qus muaj lawv tus kheej zoo nkauj, lawv tsis tuaj yeem phim qhov softness, lub zog, thiab smoothness uas peb cov neeg muas zaub xav tau los ntawm cov khoom kim heev. Cia peb tshawb xyuas cov plaub yam tseem ceeb no kom koj pom tias vim li cas Mulberry yog qhov kev xaiv zoo tshaj plaws rau cov khoom zoo.
Tus Reigning Champion: Mulberry Silk
Raws li peb tau tham,Mulberry silk[^5] yog tus qauv kub. Nws suav txog li 90% ntawm lub ntiaj teb cov khoom siv lo lo ntxhuav. Tsim los ntawmBombyx mas[^6]silkworm, nws cov fibers yog ntev, uniform, thiab ib txwm dawb huv. Qhov no tso cai rau txawm tias dyeing thiab ua rau smoothest, feem ntau ruaj khov ntaub muaj. Nws yog tib lo lo ntxhuav uas tsim los ntawm cultivated silkworms, uas yog vim li cas nws zoo li zoo ib yam thiab superior. Thaum koj yuav ib yam khoom zoo li lub hauv ncoo txhob lo lo ntxhuav los yog plaub hau bonnet, qhov no yog hom lo lo ntxhuav koj xav tau.
Cov Silks
Lwm yam peb hom no feem ntau muab ua ke ua "cov silkworms" vim hais tias cov silkworms tsis ua liaj ua teb thiab nyob hauv lawv qhov chaw nyob.
- Tussah Silk[^8]:Ua los ntawm ntau hom kab mob silkworm uas pub rau ntawm nplooj ntoo qhib. Cov ntaub ntawv no muaj luv luv, coarser fibers thiab lub ntuj golden los yog brownish xim. Nws tsis yog mos liMulberry silk[^5] thiab yog qhov nyuaj rau zas xim.
- Eri Silk[^9]:Kuj tseem hu ua "kev sib haum xeeb silk" vim hais tias silkworms raug tso cai tawm ntawm lawv cov cocoons ua ntej cov kab lo lo ntxhuav tau sau. Cov fibers yog luv dua thiab muaj cov ntaub plaub los yog paj rwb zoo li kev ntxhib los mos, ua rau nws tsis tshua muaj duMulberry silk[^5].
- Muga Silk[^10]:Qhov no tsis tshua muaj thiab kim tsiaj qus yog tsim los ntawm silkworms hauv Assam, Is Nrias teb. Nws yog lub npe hu rau nws lub ntuj golden sheen thiab huab cua durability, tab sis nws rougher kev ntxhib los mos ua rau nws tsis haum rau cov ntaub ntawv mos zoo li pillowcases.
Hom Silk Silkworm noj zaub mov Fiber yam ntxwv Kev siv loj Mulberry Mulberry nplooj Ntev, du, sib xws, dawb huv Khoom kim heev txaj[^7], khaub ncaws Tussah Oak & lwm nplooj Shorter, coarser, ntuj golden xim Cov ntaub hnyav dua, tsho Eri Castor nplooj Luv, woolly, ntom, off-dawb Shawls, pam Muga Som & Soalu nplooj Coarse, ruaj heev, ntuj kub Cov tsoos Indian khaub ncaws
Xaus
Thaum kawg, qhov sib txawv ntawm pheej yig thiab kim txhob lo lo ntxhuav los ntawm qhov chaw, qhov hnyav, thiab kev xav. Siab zooMulberry silk[^5] nrog siab duaNiam suav[^2] muab qhov tsis sib xws softness, durability, thiab khoom kim heev.
[^1]: Kev nkag siab txog cov yam ntxwv ntawm cov ntaub lo lo ntxhuav zoo tuaj yeem pab koj txiav txim siab yuav khoom. [^2]: Kawm txog Momme suav kom nkag siab tias nws cuam tshuam li cas rau cov ntaub lo lo ntxhuav zoo thiab kav ntev. [^3]: Master the Touch Test kom yooj yim txheeb xyuas cov ntaub ntawv zoo thaum yuav khoom. [^4]: Tshawb xyuas qhov kev ntsuam xyuas no kom nkag siab tias txhob lo lo ntxhuav cuam tshuam lub teeb thiab nws qhov zoo li cas. [^5]: Tshawb nrhiav yog vim li cas Mulberry txhob lo lo ntxhuav yog tus qauv kub hauv cov ntaub lo lo ntxhuav thiab nws cov txheej txheem tsim khoom tshwj xeeb. [^6]: Kawm paub txog Bombyx mori silkworm thiab nws lub luag haujlwm hauv kev tsim cov ntaub zoo nkauj. [^7]: Tshawb nrhiav seb yog vim li cas txhob lo lo ntxhuav yog qhov kev xaiv zoo tshaj plaws rau cov ntaub pua chaw zoo nkauj thiab nws cov txiaj ntsig. [^8]: Kawm txog Tussah Silk kev tsim khoom thiab nws cov yam ntxwv sib txawv piv rau Mulberry silk. [^9]: Tshawb nrhiav cov khoom tshwj xeeb ntawm Eri Silk thiab nws cov ntawv thov hauv textiles. [^10]: Tshawb nrhiav qhov tsis tshua muaj thiab cov yam ntxwv ntawm Muga Silk, ib hom tshwj xeeb ntawm cov tsiaj qus.
Post lub sij hawm: Aug-12-2025